As the days shorten, leaves turn to russet, Summer changes to Autumn; that "season of mists and mellow fruitfulness". It's tempting to reach for a glass of Nebbiolo - that inimitable combination of power and finesse, ethereal and elegant yet earthy and rustic.

It's savoury fruit and delicate floral aromas seem to me to be a liquid distillation of Autumn.

Even the name has a touch of the autumnal - first recorded as Nibiol in 1266 - deriving from the Italian for Fog, Nebbia, Nebula in Latin. Thought either to refer to the thick, abundant bloom that grows on ripe berries or the fogs which shroud vineyards during harvest in the north of Italy.

It's hard to argue against Nebbiolo being Italy's greatest native grape. In fact it is simply one of the greatest grape varieties grown anywhere. 

The closet comparison one can draw is that of Burgundy and Pinot Noir. Indeed many of the best examples are referred to as Burgundian - perhaps we need a new adjective as the greatest wines of Barolo and Barbaresco in particular are like no other. Similarly to Pinot Noir, it is an ancient grape with numerous clones, biotypes and sub varieties. Like Burgundy, the best vineyards and Crus were the subject of investigation and delineation by Benedictine monks.

Nebbiolo is an early budding grape. Thin skinned and late ripening, it is particularly susceptible to spring frosts, disease and pests. It also requires protection from winds and needs southerly exposures to achieve ripeness. All this, coupled with an extreme fussiness about the type of soil in which it is grown, calls to mind Jancis Robinson's famous description of Pinot being a "bitch" to grow.

Why bother then?Nebbiolo is almost unrivalled in its ability to communicate the subtleties of terroir and site, to speak of the soil in which it is grown.

A light, translucent, red in colour - which quickly fades to orange with age - Nebbiolo is a grape of haunting aromas. Delicately floral; particularly violets and fresh, dried rose petals with delicate spice notes of cinnamon, liquorice and sometimes a hint of pine and balsamic - easily confused with the notes of tar which come with age.

On the palate you have vibrant acidity, often serious tannins and an above all savoury note - red cherries predominate, mainly sour and dried, with sweetness and ripeness apparent only in too hot vintages. Other red fruits - raspberries and strawberries can be found and age brings earthiness and truffles.

This combination of powerful tannin and delicacy of fruit is like no other wine; subtle and nuanced with complex interweaving of fruit and savoury elements. Great length of flavour - tannins mingle with the body of the wine in a drawn-out experience. This structure and acidity lend an incredible capacity to age for decades.

The taste of fine old Nebbiolo can be haunting, even transcendental.

Nebbiolo achieves its greatest heights in the Langhe regions of Barolo and Barbaresco. Located on the right bank of the Tanaro river, South and North of the town of Alba respectively, where the black and white truffle (another gastronomic treasure) excels.

Calcareous and Marl soils predominate here. Composed of 11 villages and 171 vineyards mainly located at 150m-450m above sea level, Barolo is a patchwork of expositions and soil types, chiefly variations of sandstone and marls.

A horseshoe shaped basin cut in two by a ridge than runs from Castiglione Falleto to Monforte d'Alba, Barolo is essentially two valleys. The wines on the west side, such as La Morra, are softer and more approachable than those on the east side, such as Serralunga, with its famous structure and power.

Three Kilometres northeast of Barolo and just 1/3 of its size, on gentler, lower lying hills at 150-350m, Barbaresco has a warmer microclimate, closer to the Tanaro. The soil is richer, more fertile and limestone rich. Ripening here is earlier and the resulting wines are softer and more approachable in youth. However, they are no less age worthy, with the top crus of Barbaresco being no less impressive or powerful than those of Barolo.

In Italy Nebbiolo is grown across Piemonte, making great wines in Asti( Albugnano), Roero, Boca, Carema, Gattinara, Ghemme, Lessona, Valle d'Aosta (Donnas)

Valtellina

DNA evidence suggests Nebbiolo, known here as Chiavannesca is a native to Lombardy. Indeed it is thought to have been cultivated by the Beneductines as long ago as the 10th Century. Ripening here is aided by the exposition to sunlight afforded by steep vineyards, thick terraced walls which retain heat, and a long sunny, dry growing season influenced by Lake Como to the south.

Three to try:

Barbacàn Söl Valtellina Superiore Valgella

Valtellina is closer to Switzerland than the Langhe and represents the northern frontier of Nebbiolo. Soils are sandy here on vertiginous, spectacular terraced vineyards up to 540m above sea level. Lighter of body and with softer tannins than that of its Piemontese cousins, with vibrant red cherry acidity with delicate dried herbs.

Roagna Langhe Rosso
(a staple of the Fhior Wine List since opening)

Luca Roagna helms this family estate with roots in Barbaresco going back to the mid 19th century. Farming is strictly organic, although uncertified, drawing inspiration from diverse source including Rudolph Steiner and Masanobu Fukuoka. A humble Langhe Rosso, this wine comes from two top cru sites, Pira in Barolo and Paje in Barbaresco. With at least five years ageing before release, this encapsulates all that is great about the Langhe.

Luke Lambert Nebbiolo Yarra Valley

To put it mildly, Nebbiolo is not a well-travelled grape. Luke spent a great deal of time searching for the ideal site in the cool climate Yarra - an organically farmed amphitheatre. He spent three vintages working in Italy before embarking on this project, due to his belief that Nebbiolo makes the greatest wines in the world - viticulture is decidedly non- interventionist and old school. Jasper Hill, Timo Meyer and Castagna also produce outstanding Nebbiolo, part of a small but growing group of growers motivated by sheer love of this grape.